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In November 2024 'The Burnt Chef Project' posted a challenge on instagram that would change the path of our lives forever. Ok, that was a bit dramatic, but it was something that was all consuming for about a year and a half!


Luckily, my sister and her partner had just completed the Machame route a mere 4 weeks earlier so we were able to get fresh inspiration from them!


Their inspiration -  'Dont do it!', 'It was great, but never again!', 'Its really tough!' BUT also 'It was a great challenge', 'You could defo do it, you've got plenty of time to train!'.


My one concern  - These guys are regular gym goers! we most definitely were not!


After a LOT of back and forth, we thought 'WHY NOT!?'


Just under a year later, we have completed it, and this is my daily diary!

DAY 1 – WIDE EYES, DUST & THE MILKY WAY

The air was electric the morning we left. After the kit inspection the night before, the reality of what we were about to do finally hit us—equal parts excitement and dread over breakfast. But we were ready… or at least pretending convincingly.

We piled into the vehicle for a 3-hour drive to Londorossi Gate, where we signed in, weighed bags, took photos, and did a bit of standing around pretending we knew what was happening. After another hour’s drive to Morum Picnic Site, the hike was about to officially begin.

Before setting off, we had a quick picnic lunch: fried chicken, boiled eggs, mango juice—classic Kili cuisine, apparently. Then it was coats on, poles out, trail ahead.

After a relativly comfortable hike we were all full of confidence as arrived at Shira 1 Camp. The tents were already up, and we got our first real glimpse of camp life. We spent most of the evening crammed happily into the mess tent getting to know each other, and later, when the clouds finally cleared, we stepped outside to a sky absolutely exploding with stars. Ive never seen the Milky Way look so dramatic.


The perfect first camp. The perfect first night.

DAY 2 – FROSTY MORNINGS & CLOUD FORESTS

 

We woke at 6:30 to a tent-side coffee, which instantly set the bar unreasonably high for future camping trips. The world outside the tent was covered in frost—boots, tents, even our enthusiasm had a light icy edge.


The first night was comfortable and a great way to learn the ins and outs of what camping on the mountain was going to look like. Lesson 1 - i do not want to be getting up searching for the toilet tent at 3am again! 


The trail started dry, warm and dusty, coating us in a fine layer of mountain talcum powder. But a couple of hours in, everything changed. We climbed straight into a low-hanging layer of cloud, and suddenly the world was damp, cold, and wonderfully atmospheric—mist drifting between boulders like something from a fantasy film.

We reached Shira 2 camp early afternoon and warmed up in the mess tent with a dramatic round of Would You Rather, all while politely ignoring the deteriorating state of our clothing.

Dinner was cucumber soup, bean stew, and rice—simple, hot, and perfect. The cucumber soup was the unlikely hero of the whole week! 


By 8pm, we were tucked into sleeping bags, bracing for another frosty night above the clouds.

Day 3 – Lava Tower, Legs of Stone

 We started early, crunching across frosty rocks with cold toes and multiple layers. As soon as the sun appeared, we instantly overheated—Kili loves a temperature mood swing.

The climb to Lava Tower was steady but high. We had lunch up there—curry, bread, potatoes—and congratulated ourselves on eating at an altitude where most people struggle to breathe. 

The hike up was a touch more difficult than the last 2 days but then came the descent.

The descent was brutal. The kind of trail that makes you question your life choices. Loose rocks. Steep drops. Zero mercy but good practice for what lay ahead of us in the days to come.


At some point, we were handed trekking poles. Honestly, I can see the appeal and everyone else in the group used them, however i had not trained with them before i found myself second guessing every foot placement!


Eventually, we dropped into a valley filled with alien-looking senecio trees, a surreal green wonderland after hours of rock. We hastened into Barranco Camp around 2pm, dusty, exhausted but proud of ourselves. The cloud was back to being a thick curtain so we spent the next few hours watching and waiting for the next days trail to be revealed.

 

Dinner: pumpkin soup, spaghetti & ragu.

Day 4 – The Infamous Barranco Wall

 We woke at 6am to coffee and the distant murmurs of hikers nervously discussing The Wall. Even the guides said it ominously.

By 7:15am, we were standing beneath the Barranco Wall, a vertical-looking slab of rock decorated with tiny human dots moving slowly upward. It looked both impressive and offensive.


The climb, however, was unexpectedly fun. A mix of scrambling, hugging the rock, trusting the guides, and trying not to look down. We shuffled across the famous kissing rock section—less terrifying than advertised, but still intimate. 


At the top, we were greeted with ginger tea and biscuits, because what else could you possibly want at 4,000 metres.


Then came the trilogy of destruction:
down a valley → up a valley → down another valley, each one deeper and more inconvenient than the last.

We arrived at Karanga Camp dusty and exhausted but were revived by roast chicken, potatoes, and vegetables.

The afternoon was all about naps and cards, wrapped up and avoiding any unnecessary movement.  Karanga had some of the best views of the whole trip—clouds beneath us, the summit above us, and the feeling that we were getting close. This eveing had one of the most spectacular golden sunsets.

My packing list (and what i wished i'd packed!)

Day 5 – To High Camp

 We left Karanga after breakfast and began the steady climb toward Barafu (High Camp). The trail was exposed, windy, and increasingly lunar—just endless grey rock and dust.

The altitude made everything slower. Even sipping water felt like a small achievement. We reached Barafu late morning, ate lunch and had a mixture of resting and socialising in the mess tent.

Dinner was early, followed by an early bedtime. By 7pm, the camp was silent—just a village of headlamps switching off one by one, everyone struggling to sleep while waiting for midnight.

Summit day was coming.

Day 6 – Summit Day 26th September 2025

 

We woke at 1am, disoriented and already wearing most of our wardrobe. Breakfast felt surreal—hot porridge, biscuits, tea. Not that any of us had much of an appetite.

By 1:40am, we were on the trail, headlamps glowing in the darkness. One of the most vivid memories of the entire climb was looking up and seeing the snaking line of lights above us—silent, determined, and stretching impossibly high. Behind us, another line trailed down the mountain. It felt like joining a slow, glowing procession to the sky.

As we climbed, the sun began to rise, painting the horizon in orange and pink. The cold softened, the sky opened, and for the first time that night, we could see the mountain’s scale. It was both beautiful and intimidating.

We reached Stella Point around 8am, there were tired cheers, emotional hugs, and plenty of heavy breathing. The sweetest ginger tea took the edge off of the bitter cold which was quickly creeping in through lack of movement.

The final stretch to the summit was a walk along the crater rim—stunning, silent, icy. We arrived at Uhuru Peak around 9am, running purely on adrenaline.

Photos were taken quickly, the air felt incredibly thin, emotions were evident and exhaustion was beginning to replace adrenalin. Then came the long descent back to Barafu.


Not much can prepare you for the downhill from Uhuru peak. Its a mixture of sking through ashy sand and bouncing from boulder to boulder. At the time its never ending but looking back it passes so quickly.


After a brief rest at high camp it was time to pack away the contents of our tents, and push on to Millennium Camp, arriving exhausted but triumphant. Arriving around 

my packing list (and what i wished i had packed!)

Day 7 – Down to Mweka

  The final morning felt relaxed—probably because gravity was finally on our side. We had breakfast, packed up, and started the long downhill trudge to Mweka Gate.

The descent was muddy, slippery, and occasionally chaotic, but spirits were high. We passed through forest, then thicker forest, and finally—gloriously—flat ground.

At the gate, we signed out, collected certificates, and celebrated with the best cold drink of our lives.

We had climbed Kilimanjaro.
We had survived Kilimanjaro.
And we’d made memories that felt big enough to last forever.

Absolutely — here is a polished, heartfelt, blog-ready section you can slot in anywhere (often placed after Day 7 or as a standalone “Thank You” segment). Tone matches the rest of your diary: warm, sincere, slightly witty, and deeply appreciative.

A Tribute to the Porters & Guides – The Real Heroes of Kili

If there’s one thing we all agreed on by the end of the climb—somewhere between the sore knees, the dust-coated clothes, and the emotional summit selfies—it’s this:

We would not have made it up (or down) Kilimanjaro without our porters and guides. Full stop.

These incredible humans were the heartbeat of the entire expedition. While we huffed and puffed up the trail with daypacks, they floated past carrying what looked like half the mountain on their backs and heads—tents, food, cooking gear, our duffels, and occasionally our dignity.

Every morning, they greeted us with smiles, hot drinks, and a sense of calm that made the altitude feel less intimidating. They set up camp before we arrived, took it down after we left, and somehow managed to keep spirits high even when the weather turned dramatic.

And the guides—they were something else entirely.

They watched our breathing, our pace, our hydration, our energy levels, and any hint of altitude sickness. They knew when to push, when to pause, when to crack a joke, and when to quietly say, “Pole pole,” in that soothing way that made us believe we could actually keep going.

On summit night, when everything felt harder—cold, dark, steep, relentless—they were the ones who kept us moving. Step by step. Breath by breath. They checked our oxygen levels, wrapped us in extra layers, held our packs when we were wobbling, and kept reminding us that the sun would rise soon… and that the summit was within reach.

And when we finally stood on Uhuru Peak, exhausted and exhilarated, it wasn’t just our victory.
It was theirs.

These men and women are the quiet heroes of Kilimanjaro—strong, skilled, compassionate, and utterly extraordinary. Their knowledge kept us safe. Their encouragement kept us going. Their kindness carried us through the hardest moments.

If we climbed the mountain, they carried the journey.

We’ll be grateful to them forever.

Some favourite photos from all of team

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